Jenkins fails to restart after plugin updates, when installed via Debian package

To reproduce:

1. Install Jenkins from https://pkg.jenkins.io/debian-stable 
2. Install some plugin updates via the Jenkins web UI, and tell Jenkins to restart when done
3. Observe that the "Please wait while Jenkins is restarting ..." page remains forever

Looking into the logs, there is:

WARNING jenkins.model.Jenkins$20#run: Failed to restart Jenkins
java.io.IOException: Failed to exec 'jenkins: /bin/java' No such file or directory
        at hudson.lifecycle.UnixLifecycle.restart(UnixLifecycle.java:87)
        at jenkins.model.Jenkins$20.run(Jenkins.java:4397) 

Naturally, trying to execute a command named 'jenkins: /bin/java' failed. But why did it try?

Looking at the running Jenkins process, its /proc/<PID>/cmdline value has been updated to have 'jenkins: /bin/java'.

It is being run under the /usr/bin/daemon process manager, which performs this name update to make the identity of the service process clearer in process listings.

The Jenkins Debian packages should not install Jenkins in a way which defeats its own auto-restart functionality.